Fifteenth-Century Belt Pouches: Study and Reconstruction – Eugenio Larosa
The term scarsella generally refers to a small belt pouch, widespread in Europe between the late Middle Ages and the Renaissance, used to carry money and small personal items.
Suspended from the belt by ties, loops, or metal fittings, the scarsella was one of the most common means of carrying money and small personal belongings at a time when pockets were not yet commonly incorporated into clothing.
In Italy, however, its presence is less well documented than in other parts of Europe. Within the Italian context of the second half of the fifteenth century, the scarsella appears to have been relatively uncommon, despite its widespread use in modern historical reenactment.
Contemporary sources, including chronicles and notarial records, attest to the widespread use of small leather or cloth bags worn beneath the outer garment, whereas references to objects that we would today identify as scarselle are comparatively rare.
Although aware of the limited evidence for this accessory in fifteenth-century Italy, I chose to have two different scarselle made as part of my broader research and experimentation into the material culture of the period.
The Working Pouch: Between Iconography and Archaeological Evidence
The first model was inspired by a print dating to around 1465 and attributed to Baccio Baldini, now in the British Museum in London, depicting a man at work.
The external shape of the pouch was derived from this image, while its internal construction and materials were based on archaeological finds documented in Olaf Goubitz’s Purses in Pieces, supplemented by evidence published by the Museum of London.
This is a functional pouch, best described as a working model. Robust, durable materials were deliberately selected: two different types of vegetable-tanned leather were used, with a thicker hide for the outer structure and a thinner, softer leather for the internal compartments, supplemented by linen linings where required.
All the metal fittings were handmade from brass plate.
The Refined Pouch: Towards a Museum-Quality Reconstruction
The second model represents a more refined, high-status version, conceived as part of the dress of a merchant or prosperous urban citizen.
It is again a belt pouch, but in this case the aim was to produce a museum-quality replica with a high degree of historical accuracy and craftsmanship, drawing on detailed research into surviving original examples and materials documented in fifteenth-century archaeological contexts.
The pouch is made from several types and thicknesses of leather, including both cowhide and sheepskin, and is lined with hemp fabric. Particular attention was devoted to the stitching, both in the choice of materials documented in archaeological finds and in the use of techniques compatible with fifteenth-century methods of manufacture.
Finally, the buckle was made from a tin alloy, based on evidence from archaeological finds.
Given the limited evidence for the scarsella in fifteenth-century Italy, I do not normally use this pouch in my reenactment activities. I nevertheless consider it an important educational and interpretative tool.
It provides visitors with a tangible example of a high-quality reconstruction produced through careful historical research and executed to a standard of craftsmanship rarely encountered in commercially available reproductions.
Fifteenth-Century Belt Pouches: Study and Reconstruction- Eugenio Larosa
